全球视野 | 成功与善举如何兼得？看看这些非营利性餐厅怎么做

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文章《Can a Restaurant Do Well and Do Good?/餐馆是否能兼顾成功与善举？》发布在Bloomberg/彭博社的网站上。作者是Matthew Kronsberg。文章通过多个案例展示了非营利性餐厅在实践中所面临的挑战与机遇。尽管这些餐厅在运营上需要面对诸如资金短缺、原材料限制等问题，但它们通过创新的运营模式和社会责任感，正在逐步改变餐饮行业。通过这些实际案例，文章展示了即使餐饮行业面临众多挑战，但只要有合适的理念和创新的运营模式，餐厅不仅可以“做得好”，还可以“做好事”。

Ikigai is a great restaurant. It’s also a good one. 

Ikigai是一家出色的餐厅，同时也是一家善良的餐厅。 

At this new Brooklyn omakase, a recent dinner begins in the rear garden-turned-Japanese tea room with milk bread and miso butter, okra and lotus root pickles and kombucha-like rhododendron fermented tea. After a while, diners—a dozen per seating—are ushered into the subterranean dining room for the remainder of their 12-course, $165 meal. Chef Rafal Maslankiewicz, a veteran of Wildflower Farms in the Hudson Valley and Manhattan’s Eleven Madison Park and Masa, adds grace notes from Poland, his home country, to kaiseki, the most traditionally Japanese of meal formats. 

在这家位于纽约布鲁克林的、新开设的omakase（译者注：厨师发办，又称无菜单料理，是餐厅点餐的一种方式，由厨师全权代替客人挑选食材并制作料理），一场晚餐从经过改造的日式茶室后花园开始，供应牛奶面包配味噌黄油、秋葵与莲藕泡菜以及类似康普茶的杜鹃花发酵茶。过了一会儿，12位用餐者会被引导到地下餐厅，继续享用他们的12道菜的晚餐，定价为165美元。主厨拉法尔·马斯兰凯维奇曾在哈德逊河谷的Wildflower Farms、曼哈顿的Eleven Madison Park以及Masa餐厅任职，他将波兰家乡的精致风味融入了传统的日本怀石料理，这是一种最具日本传统特色的用餐形式。

On a recent evening, that translated as roast Okinawa sweet potatoes topped by red cabbage braised in spiced Banyuls vinegar. Rosy slices of duck were served with stone fruit preserves and pickled baby chanterelles. After the final dish, the traditional dumpling knedle, made with the Japanese rice flour used for mochi, owner and tech entrepreneur Dan Soha addressed the guests. “Ikigai is a not-for-profit restaurant, meaning every dollar of our profits goes to an organization called Rescuing Leftover Cuisine. On day 35, we’ve officially saved 75,000 pounds of food and gotten it to people in need.” 

在近期的一个夜晚，Ikigai餐厅提供了烤冲绳红薯，上面铺着以香料调味的、巴纽尔斯红酒醋炖煮的紫甘蓝；玫瑰色的鸭肉片搭配核果果酱和腌制的小鸡油菌一同上桌。最后一道菜是传统的东欧饺子Knedle，用制作日式年糕的糯米粉制成。餐厅老板兼科技企业家丹·索哈向客人致辞：“Ikigai是一家非营利性餐厅，这意味着我们的每一美元利润都会捐给‘拯救剩余食物/Rescuing Leftover Cuisine’组织（译者注：Rescuing Leftover Cuisine/RLC是美国的一家501(c)3 非营利性食品救援组织。RLC与餐厅、公司、超市等食品生产或销售场所建立合作，收集它们未售出的剩余食物；然后RLC志愿者会接收捐赠并将食物运输到当地的食物救济机构，再由当地的救济机构将食物分发给有需要的人群。除了接收受监管或有执照的食品企业制作的食品捐赠以外，RLC也接受资金捐赠，所有捐款均直接用于支持RLC的食品拯救使命）。截至第35天，我们已经正式拯救了75000磅的食物，并将其送到了有需要的人手中。”

Pick a difficult societal issue—wage or gender inequality, food insecurity, food waste, systemic barriers to workforce participation, or even the environmentally damaging prevalence of single-use plastics—and you will find it vexing the restaurant industry. You will also find restaurateurs like Soha who put finding and implementing solutions on par with their mission of feeding hungry guests. 

选择一个棘手的社会问题：工资或性别不平等、食品安全、食物浪费、阻碍劳动力参与的系统性障碍，甚至是破坏环境的一次性塑料制品。你会发现这些问题困扰着餐饮业。同时，你也会发现像丹·索哈这样的餐厅经营者，他们把寻找和实施问题解决方案与满足饥饿客人的使命，放在同等重要的位置。 

Those solutions rarely come cheaply or easily. “Can a Restaurant Do Well and Do Good?” was the theme for a discussion in June hosted by MAD, the nonprofit founded by Noma’s chef and co-owner René Redzepi, with the “ambition of transforming hospitality and driving change in food systems.” Moderated by Jamila Robinson, editor-in-chief of Bon Appétit, with panelists Mark Bittman, Edward Lee and Erin Wade, the audience couldn’t help but come away thinking that the only thing harder than turning a profit with a restaurant is creating and sustaining one as a nonprofit. 

这些解决方案通常既昂贵又难以实现。一场题为“餐厅是否能兼顾成功与善举？”的讨论会于6月举行，由诺玛餐厅的厨师兼共同创始人雷内·雷德泽皮创办的非营利组织MAD主办，旨在“改变餐饮行业并推动食品系统的变革”。该讨论由《Bon Appétit》主编杰米拉·罗宾逊主持，讨论小组成员包括马克·比特曼、爱德华·李和艾琳·韦德。讨论结束后，听众们不禁想到，比餐厅盈利更难的事情，莫过于创建并维持一家非营利性的餐厅。 

“It's ironic that I'm here, because I was actually supposed to announce the opening of my nonprofit restaurant next week, but we ran out of money and we couldn't raise the money,” said the prolific author and chef Lee. While his LEE Initiative has helped empower restaurant workers since 2018, this project left him frustrated. “I have to say the last four months have been the hardest time of my career,” he said. 

“我在这里真是讽刺，因为实际上我本该在下周宣布我的非营利性餐厅的开业，但我们资金用尽了，我们筹不到钱，”这位多产的作家和厨师爱德华·李说道。虽然他的“LEE计划”自2018年以来一直在帮助赋能餐厅员工，但这个项目让他感到沮丧。李说：“我不得不说，过去的四个月是我职业生涯中最艰难的时期。”

After spending the summer fundraising, Lee has just announced the fall opening of Shia. His Washington restaurant/test lab/think tank will serve refined Korean fare with the goal of reducing food waste by at least half, operating without gas and researching how to eliminate single-use plastics from the restaurant supply chain. Sacrifices will be made—there will be no chocolate dessert on the menu, Lee says, because he can’t find any that don’t come wrapped in plastic. But other limitations will come with benefits: Rather than cryovaced beef from Texas, he’ll source meat locally. His findings will be made available to diners and restaurateurs, who might want to follow a similar path but don’t have the resources for research. 

经过整个夏季的筹款，爱德华·李刚刚宣布餐厅Shia即将在秋季开业。他的这家华盛顿餐厅/实验室/智囊团将提供精致的韩式美食。餐厅的三个目标分别是将食物浪费减少至少一半、零燃气餐厅厨房（译者注：即完全不使用天然气或其他化石燃料烹饪的厨房，通常使用电力设备；具有可以减少碳排放、提高能源效率、降低火灾风险，以及改善空气质量等好处），并研究如何从餐厅供应链中消除一次性塑料。李表示，这将会做出一些牺牲，菜单上不会有巧克力甜点，因为他找不到不用塑料包装的巧克力。但限制也将带来好处：他将在当地采购肉类，而不是使用来自得克萨斯州的真空包装牛肉。他的研究成果将向顾客和餐厅经营者提供，他们可能也想要走类似的道路，但没有研究资源。 

Operating as a fine dining restaurant allows the LEE Initiative the financial wherewithal to research and innovate, with the hope that what he creates at Shia (Korean for seed) will eventually propagate across the industry. 

作为一家高档餐厅，这使得“LEE计划”拥有了进行研究和创新的经济基础，爱德华·李希望他在Shia（韩语为“种子”）餐厅所创造的理念，最终能够在整个行业中传播开来。

The goal of many civic-minded restaurateurs, however, is to make their food accessible to as wide of an audience as possible. At the MAD panel, author Bittman, who has been researching a restaurant project of his own, noted that “restaurants have enough trouble making money as it is, but if you're going to start giving away food [or] serving food on a sliding scale, then you have a real issue.” 

然而，许多关注社会责任的餐厅经营者的目标，是让尽可能多的人都能品尝到他们的食物。在MAD讨论会上，作家马克·比特曼提到，他一直在研究自己的餐厅项目。他指出：“餐厅本身在盈利方面就已经很困难了，但如果你开始免费提供食物或者采用浮动费率收费制，那么你就会面临真正的问题。”

But that’s not to say a restaurant can’t be mission-minded, affordable and also profitable, said fellow panelist Wade. At her former Oakland restaurant Homeroom, which she sold in 2020 (she holds a seat on the restaurant group she sold it to), the specialty is an elevated take on macaroni and cheese. By keeping the cooked-to-order dish competitively priced and by not insisting on expensive ultra-premium ingredients, the restaurant started with block-long lines and stayed packed. 

但这并不是说一家餐厅不能同时具有使命感、亲民的价格和盈利能力，讨论组的成员艾琳·韦德指出。在她于2020年出售的奥克兰餐厅Homeroom（她在收购了该餐厅的餐饮集团中担任职位），其特色是升级版本的奶酪通心粉。Homeroom餐厅提供按顾客需求现点现做的菜肴，同时保持了菜品价格的竞争力，并且不过分追求昂贵的顶级食材。自开业以来，这家餐厅便排起了长队，并始终保持着客满的状态。 

“In our first year in business, we did $1.6 million in sales. By year ten, we were just shy of $7 million out of our shoebox-sized restaurant. Homeroom's financial metrics put it in the top 1% of restaurant performance in terms of revenue per square foot. We were small, and extremely mighty. Even a high performing national chain like Chipotle would have had to invest in opening multiple stores in the same time span to have achieved the growth we achieved out of our one location,” she wrote in her new book, The Mac and Cheese Millionaire: Building a Better Business by Thinking Outside the Box ($17; Wiley, Sept 24.) 

韦德在她的新书《The Mac and Cheese Millionaire: Building a Better Business by Thinking Outside the Box/奶酪通心粉百万富翁：打破常规思维，打造更好的商业》写道：“在开业的第一年，我们的销售额达到了160万美元。到第十年，我们的销售额接近700万美元，尽管餐厅面积小得就像一个鞋盒一样。Homeroom的财务指标，使其在每平方英尺的收入方面，位于餐厅表现的前1%。我们虽然小，但却非常强大。即使是表现优异的全国连锁餐厅Chipotle，在同样的时间内也需要投资开设多个门店，才能达到我们一家店所实现的增长。” 

Wade, a lawyer-turned-restaurateur, operated with the intent of upending the sorts of labor practices that leave the restaurant industry with an average turnover rate of 80.2%. 

艾琳·韦德是一名律师出身的餐馆老板，她经营餐馆的初衷是为了改变餐饮业平均离职率高达80.2%的用工做法。

“Early on, I had big visions of being not only this amazing place to work, but having incredible sourcing and all of these other things, and honestly it became clear that I just had to pick one battle to focus my time on, and I picked people,” she says. 

韦德说：“一开始，我的愿景非常宏大，我不仅希望（餐馆）成为一个令人惊叹的工作场所，还希望拥有优质的采购和其他许多事情。老实说，我很快意识到我只能专注于一项工作，因此我选择了人。” 

By implementing progressive practices such as open-book management, employee management techniques based on the principles of restorative justice, and a pioneering system for dealing with sexual harassment (which became a model for countless other restaurants), she raised the average stint for an employee to two and a half years. 

通过实施开卷管理、基于恢复性司法原则的员工管理技术（译者注：是一种以修复关系、解决冲突、促进包容和公正为核心的管理方式，旨在通过合作与对话解决工作场所中的问题，而非惩罚性措施。该原则源于刑事司法领域，重视当事人之间的修复，而非单纯的惩罚）等进步做法，以及开创性的性骚扰处理系统（这成为了许多其他餐厅的典范）（译者注：该系统采用颜色编码来分类顾客行为，并根据不同颜色采取相应的行动。黄色表示顾客行为带有令人不适的气氛或外表，员工自主可以选择是否让餐厅经理接管该桌顾客。橙色是指涉及带有性暗示的言语，餐厅经理必须接管桌子。红色是指涉及明确的性言论或触摸，或在被告知不受欢迎后重复橙色行为的顾客，餐厅经理必须将顾客驱逐。员工在遇到骚扰问题时，向经理报告颜色，经理根据颜色自动采取行动，不作进一步询问），韦德将员工的平均工作年限提高到了两年半。 

“That’s 10 times the industry standard,” says Wade. “People might say, ‘oh, that sounds time-consuming’ and ‘time is money.’ That's true, but it's really time-consuming to keep hiring people and training them to do stuff.” 

韦德说：“人们可能会说，‘哦，这听起来很费时间’和‘时间就是金钱’。这确实没错，但实际上，不断招聘和培训新员工才是最耗费时间的。”

The turnover at LocoL in Los Angeles is sure to be higher, but that’s by design. It was opened in 2016 by chefs Daniel Patterson and Roy Choi, with the goal of offering the people of Watts both high-quality affordable food and job training that can be leveraged into careers in the restaurant industry. The restaurant closed in 2018 but reopened last month, with Patterson joined at the helm by Keith Corbin, an original LocoL trainee, who went on to open acclaimed California soul food restaurant Alta Adams with Patterson. 

位于洛杉矶的LocoL的员工流动率肯定会更高，但这也是有意为之。该餐厅于2016年由厨师丹尼尔·帕特森和罗伊·崔开设，旨在为Watts地区的居民提供高质量的平价食品，并提供就业培训，帮助人们在餐饮业就业。餐厅在2018年关闭，但在今年8月份重新开业，这次餐厅由帕特森与原LocoL的学员基思·科尔宾共同掌舵。科尔宾曾经和帕特森一起开设了备受赞誉的加州灵魂料理餐厅Alta Adams。 

LocoL is now a nonprofit, offering training and job placement assistance to the community while serving soul food standards like oxtails, fried chicken and BBQ beef ribs. Support came in the form of grills from Traeger Inc., meat and poultry from Brandt Beef and Jidori Chicken, which helps to keep dishes at an affordable price point, and money from Wells Fargo, Selena Gomez, and Corbin and Patterson’s own pockets. Despite LocoL’s track record and profile, civic support has been a sticking point, with a very few exceptions. “The city is failing to step up for us,” says Corbin, who is looking for grants and local funding. 

LocoL现在是一家非营利组织，为社区提供培训和就业援助（译者注：LocoL餐厅会雇佣并培训当地社区的居民，帮助他们建立工作习惯，使他们能够在职业生涯中不断成长发展。六到十二个月后，员工将被推荐到其他共享Locol价值观的餐厅工作，LocoL则会雇佣另一名员工接替工作。LocoL还计划在其他地区开设由优秀员工共同拥有的盈利性分店，Locol将为那些表现出创业能力的员工提供六个月的管理培训，并使其有机会成为新店的合伙人，从而为员工创造清晰的创业途径）；同时提供牛尾、炸鸡和烧烤牛肋骨等灵魂料理。Traeger Inc.提供了烧烤架，Brandt Beef和Jidori Chicken提供了肉类和家禽，这有助于保持菜品的平价。富国银行、赛琳娜·戈麦斯提供了资金支持。同时科尔宾和帕特森也自掏腰包提供支持。尽管LocoL有着良好的业绩记录和知名度，但市政支持仍然是一个难题，只有极少数例外情况。科尔宾表示：“城市没有为我们提供支持。”他们正在寻找拨款和地方资助。 

Not having to chase money is one of the things that sets Ikigai apart from most other restaurants. Soha spent 15 years working 16-hour days in the tech industry, starting and selling such businesses as digital marketing agency Five Mill, so he could afford to do this. He owns the building where Ikigai is, so neither rent nor investors will impede his mission. 

不必为资金奔波，是Ikigai区别于大多数其他餐厅的一大特点。丹·索哈在科技行业工作了15年，他每天工作16小时，创办并出售了诸如数字营销机构Five Mill等企业，从而积累了足够的财力来做这些事。他拥有Ikigai所在的建筑，因此无需担心房租或投资者的干扰，这些都不会阻碍他的使命。 

“Sometimes I feel like I’m cheating,” he says, sounding a little humbled for his good fortune in having a restaurant where the food is notably good, and so is the mission. 

“有时我感觉自己是在作弊，”索哈说，语气中带着对自己的幸运的谦逊，毕竟他拥有一家不仅食物出色，使命也同样崇高的餐厅。